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In physics and mathematics, wavelength or spatial period of a wave or periodic function is the distance over which the wave's shape repeats. [ 1][ 2] In other words, it is the distance between consecutive corresponding points of the same phase on the wave, such as two adjacent crests, troughs, or zero crossings.
Wave. Surface waves in water showing water ripples. In physics, mathematics, engineering, and related fields, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance (change from equilibrium) of one or more quantities. Periodic waves oscillate repeatedly about an equilibrium (resting) value at some frequency. When the entire waveform moves in one direction ...
A periodic function or cyclic function, also called a periodic waveform (or simply periodic wave ), is a function that repeats its values at regular intervals or periods. The repeatable part of the function or waveform is called a cycle. [1] For example, the trigonometric functions, which repeat at intervals of radians, are periodic functions ...
Phase (waves) Plot of one cycle of a sinusoidal function. The phase for each argument value, relative to the start of the cycle, is shown at the bottom, in degrees from 0° to 360° and in radians from 0 to 2π. In physics and mathematics, the phase (symbol φ or ϕ) of a wave or other periodic function of some real variable (such as time) is ...
A sine wave, sinusoidal wave, or sinusoid (symbol: ∿) is a periodic wave whose waveform (shape) is the trigonometric sine function. In mechanics, as a linear motion over time, this is simple harmonic motion; as rotation, it corresponds to uniform circular motion.
Frequency is an important parameter used in science and engineering to specify the rate of oscillatory and vibratory phenomena, such as mechanical vibrations, audio signals ( sound ), radio waves, and light . For example, if a heart beats at a frequency of 120 times per minute (2 hertz), the period—the interval between beats—is half a ...
Waves and shallow water. When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [ 1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately ...
Amplitude. The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period ). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of amplitude (see below), which are all functions of the magnitude of the differences between the ...